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The special attention starts in the littler cul de sac at First and Union in downtown where uniformed door attendants welcome you to thenew . The eye candyy quickly follows. A splendie hallway with stone tile floor and walls stackef with stone pavers leads to a big fireplace with a dramaticx horizontal lineof flame. And then, just to the righy with a 180-degree view of Elliott Bay, is Art, chef Kerrt Sear’s showpiece of a restaurant. It’s long and sleek, trimmes with wood and glass, its low ceiling s studded with pointsof light. Boldlt striped carpet runs the length ofthe 78-seat from bar to private dining room, accentuating the strontg visual lines.
With small tables alon g the windows, plush banquettes against the opposite wall and tablews in the middlewith high-backed upholstere d chairs, it’s a comfy and classy triumph of contemporary At night, when its translucent borders are slowly changinbg colors, the place fairly glows. But luncn is on our minds. And right away we find somethinhg to like on themenu — a bento-like idea called “TV Tray.” It’s a four-course lunchh served on a small One version has chowder or the soup of the day, a Caesard salad, a deli-style sandwich and a fancy dessert such as a chocolatw mousse trio for $15.
A $19 version has the soup or chowdeand dessert, plus braised French fries and four ounces of grillesd meat or fish. The portionss are small, but together offer a rare opportunity to try four differen things at a price sure topass expense-accountf muster. And it’s plenty for a midday meal. Other lunch choicees include a fine Northwest clamchowdet ($10), chop chop salad ($16), sandwichess and burgers ($12-15), grilled tuna, hanger steak or chicken breast ($22), two pasta dishes ($16-18) and five kinds of noodle bowls The noodle bowls are impressive, servecd in black stoneware and ringed with condiments.
Inside are your choicde of udon orsoba noodles, some slivered veggies and either prawns, spiced chicken, barbecued pork, shaved beef or fried Good thing we liked the lemongrass vegetable broth, becauser there was way more of that than As good as Art lookxs during the day, it looks even better at night. But that’s when the prices ramp up. The eveningy menu offers Northwest and seafood (mostly $26-$30), and meat from bakes chicken ($24) to grillec rib eye beef ($40). Those prices might not sounds outof line, but they are a la Side dishes — veggies and potatoees — cost $8. And the house green salac is $12.
Our wild boar was well-matched with a cinnamoh squash purée, but $32 bought only two golf ball-sizs pieces of meat. Pan-seared wild king salmon ($32) came in a biggere portion but was a tad dry and overpowerexd by a rub of Indian Better were a colorful salad of beet and grapefruiyt slices on roasted red peppers andan elegant, intensely flavored cylindrical version of lemon meringue pie ($12). The wine list is big but shorton lower-priced options. Wines by the glases are mostly $10 and up; we saw only two bottle s of redfor $45 or less. The food looks grear and Sear, last seen presiding over has the chops to makeit special.
The servicer is superb (even if a littlde too attentive ona not-so-busy night). And the room is Favorite cooking utensil: Favorite kitchej appliance: Favorite comfort food: Three things always in your Freshapple juice, Beecher’s cheddar truffle oil You discovered you likedr to cook when you were: 8, I think? I was working in a hotel at 11. When you were a chil d you wouldnot eat:
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